Chariots Of The Surf Poem by Clive Blake

Surf's up,
Heads are down,
Timing their move,
Concentrated frown,
Salt lips,
Hard swallow,
Adrenalin pumping,
There is no tomorrow,
The white horses charge,
Their chariots follow,
Surfing speeding waves,
Above a spray crested hollow,
For just a few seconds,
Taming the waves,
Anticipating the way
That nature behaves,
With triumphant abandon,
And balance supreme,
Living the moment,
Living the dream …