Speed
I love it. Speed. Like when you're on a twenty-foot face and crusin on a Robert August niner. Yeah, speed, That's what I love.
Surfing
I love it. Surfing. Like when you're ona 10 footer and cruisin the blue pacific and a dolphin decides to surf along side you. Yeah, surfing, That's what i love.
Fear
I love it. Fear. Not knowing what's out there to get you, or not knowing what will happen if you take off on this HUGE tsunami, if you'll go over the falls or escape the razor sharp reef. Yeah, fear, i love my fear.
This poem has not been translated into any other language yet.
I would like to translate this poem