A Perfect Wave Poem by Daniel McLaughlin

We're both in the water, skies slightly black
As we sit and wait for the perfect wave
My eyes meet a wall of water out back
Its scarily big, i hope it behaves

Taking Position, i dropp down the face.
My mate pulls of, now the wave is all mine
The tubes catching up at a steady pace,
So i ready myself, and pick my line

The Barrel comes close, curls over my feet
Now over my body, now over my brain
This is the perfect wave, creations treat,
The wave gave me feelings, i can't explain

So i turn around and look at my mate
And head out back for another long wait.