Athens To Rome - A Mediterranean And Adriatic Odyssey Poem by Deanna Samuels

Athens
Visiting Greece recently, uncovered interesting surprises.
Athens, the capital, often called ‘the birthplace of democracy'
over 4.5 million residents spread over many hills and valleys,
congested with cars and motor cycles by tens of thousands.
Each street lined with never-ending row of those two wheeled
engines which, when being used, zip in and around stationery
jammed traffic, the onlooker wondering how rider comes out
alive with such dare devil steering and swerving on each side!

At the very heart of Athens is the magnificent Neoclassical
Greek Parliament House where the elected country's legislative
body makes the laws for the many, while outside in the large
paved courtyard of Syntagma Square, traditionally dressed
soldiers change guards methodically every hour of the day.

Streets and alleyways, covered with graffiti, are lined with
shops and stores with either exquisitely created apparel or
down to earth cheap foreign imports. There are coffee shops
and restaurants offering every type of culinary delight
intermixed with everyday businesses, commerce and trades.

Houses generally appeared to be small complexes with wrap
around balconies, generally aging with faded white paintwork
and unkempt surrounds, usually tiered and spread out in small
clusters amongst the small hills and valleys which eased
away from the central square of the high-class central town.

Scattered within the city, there were numerous statues and
monuments of antiquity depicting the history and folklore of
ancient Greece, history of the long-gone heroes and Grecian
emperors of the myths, wars and splendors of those times.
The most famous of such outstanding edifices, built over two
millennia ago, The Parthenon, built atop Acropolis Hill, amazing
structures of temples and palaces which have been allowed to
deteriorate and just left in ruins over the past centuries until
significant restoration began in 1975 and continues to this day.

Housing the many thousands of sculptures and artifacts that
had originally adorned the Parthenon and the surrounding
temples and palaces, a magnificent modern museum, has
been built, The Acropolis Museum, opened in 2009, a really
worthwhile visit, brings together whole history of Acropolis Hill.


Athens Secrets of Old
a poem by Deanna Samuels

Three days of archeological sites on visits
have filled one's head of gods and myths
of ancient times and Greek story lore
of those days of old which are no more.

Each site unearthed revealed a former era's tale
of exquisite marble statues carved in great detail
and hidden palaces and senate's governing core
in giving up their secrets of many centuries' lore.


Viking Star Cruise
With Athens and surrounding areas as best explored,
embarkation onto Viking Star for two-week exploration
of towns and cities around The Adriatic and
Mediterranean Seas.
Onwards overnight, the Isle of Crete awaits.

Isle of Crete
Docking at Souda Bay, short ride to explore central Chania,
a small busy upscale town having stores of best labels.
Walking back to pick-up spot, visited the municipal gardens.
A sizeable acreage of well laid out gardens and paths
housing magnificent 60ft trees, the main trunk widths 10ft-12ft
from which sprouted five or six more thick sturdy trunks.
Enjoyed a thirst-quenching drink in the park's busy café,
where couples, singles and families eating traditional meals,
before walking short way to shuttle bus and onwards to ship.

Kalamata
Sailed overnight to Kalamata: trip of the day was visit to the
Palace of Nestor through countryside of southern Greece.
This opened up a wonderment as to what would be in store.
Is it going to be an actual palace or just a pile of old stones?

En route to this mysterious Greek historical site, countryside
ride was an interesting scene. Once out of Kalamata, where
Viking Star had berthed for the day, the scene became a
continuous plateau of olive trees, even edging high up nearby
tall hills and overflowing to very edge of verges of busy roads.
Tour guide explained that olive oil is a main earning harvest
for Greece, grows in many grades, the best being pure olive oil.
Olive oils from Greece are marketed to every corner of the
world. When ripe and ready for harvesting, a net is laid under
tree, tree shaken hard and olives drop onto waiting net which is
then emptied into bins and sent for pressing to extract the oil.

The journey wound through small villages and old hamlets,
even went under a full arched rainbow, the rain giving sparkle
to the never-ending rows of olive trees, over mountain roads
and frightening S-bends, taking one's breath away. Learned
that Greece is 80% mountainous,15% olive trees and
5% for habitation in cities, towns, villages, hamlets or farms.

Finally reached the Mycenean Palace of Nestor site at Pylos,
short shady walk, through olive trees, a climb of stone steps.
The first glimpse noticed was huge canopy covering over a
large site, as yet unseen. Around this whole area were wooden
stairs to platforms encircling this mysterious spot. Climbing
those stairs, onlooker is brought to the over-view below,
The Palace of Nestor. It was the whole layout of the palace
with its original walls three to six feet high. From commentary
of the guide, a great deal of imagination was needed, picturing
the wondrous throne, living and bed rooms, even a bathroom!

However, the vista from the wooden platforms combined with
the extra hill height gave great panoramic views of the whole
coastal area of The Ionian Sea where ancient stories such as
Helen of Troy, The Iliad and The Odyssey unfolded.

That vista, at the very least, mitigated the climb up to the
Palace of Nestor and eased the effort to see stone walls!

Isle of Corfu
The following day, the Isle of Corfu, where a visit was planned.
Bussed to town, alighted at Old Fortress nestled atop huge rock,
continued in rain with walk in immediate upscale historic area.

The bus tour continued with visit to Paleokastritsa Monastery
famed for its wine, produced by the secluded resident monks.
Its history, explained by guide from outside as cellars closed.
Spectacular views from its heights of surrounding coastline
were well worth the loss of a few sips of promised wine!

Onwards and further upwards along narrow mountain roads
almost squeezing through small villages with inches to spare.
Lunch-stop for both busses at friendly family-owned restaurant,
tasty Greek fare before reversing journey back down mountain.
The surrounding scenery beautiful, luxuriant and green
though would be more comfortable reaching flatter ground!
Now the clouds were blackened and rain falling in torrents,
water gushing downhill and across roads as newly formed rivers.
Driver, though, appeared nonplussed, probably seen it all before.
Our reward - while riding alongside coastline - a double rainbow.

Dubrovnik
Arrived in Dubrovnik, Croatia next day, starting with town tour.
The old city, towering medieval walls and authentic stone houses
otherwise, the town, typical of buildings and structures of the area.

Ancona
Overnight, sailed to Ancona, Italy, a walking tour around the town,
again, buildings and older apartment blocks found in those parts.
Further explored the older parts of town nearer to the port,
discovered the closed synagogue of Ancona on narrow hilly street.
Returned to ship to join early afternoon tour of main cathedral,
historic Roman amphitheaters and tunnels and the main square
housing old council offices for administration of local town work.
Afternoon tour concluded, ship sailed away towards setting sun.

Venice
The next port of call was very special - Venice,
a city of canals, curved stone bridges and pedestrian footways,
not one road - not one motor vehicle is on the scene.
Traffic around the city is made by river busses and taxis
and the famous romantic gondola, oared by a singing gondolier.
How many countless newly-weds and lovers has he serenaded
while slowly meandering along the narrow murky canals,
walled by centuries old, sumptuous palaces and mansions,
their foundations laid on wooden piles driven into sandy sediment.
Venice - its famous St Mark's Square and Doge Palace,
a visitor's paradise for its historic beginnings and history, for
Venetian Glass, numerous tourist stores and chic cafes.

A guided tour around canal paths and narrow alleyways
brought together a sense of how Venetians live and thrive
and the variety of shops for locals and tourists.
Sailed away from Venice in the shuttle boat to return to ship
leaving a most memorable and lasting impression in one's mind.

Zadar
After Venice, thoughts that other visits would be hard to beat,
the next stop, Zadar, Croatia had to eat unspoken words.
First, by dockside where ship moored, a unique promenade.
Acoustic tubes embedded underneath marble steps to the sea
made musical sounds from waves and wind movements.

Enjoying this new creation, boarded bus to Krka National Park.
An interesting ride through the countryside, the starting terrain
flat, but gradually getting higher at each mile. Reached Krka
and descended into the Krka grounds where bus duly parked.
Advised that with recent heavy rains, the river was running fast,
the best it has been for a long time and is quite spectacular.
That was no exaggeration. Walking through the park on the
stone paths and lengthy wooden boardwalks, the river water
flowed by us or under boards with great speed and power,
frothing and splashing as it ran its lengthy downhill course,
turning into waterfalls from higher stretches of river channels
falling into eddies and pools swirling and flowing till reaching
lower part of valley basin before meandering into flatlands.

This hour's walk over or alongside river was truly spectacular,
the downside came when having to climb up some 400 steps
to return to level where the walk had begun and bus waiting!
Slowly but surely, climbed each stage of wooden steps,
some even without handrails - but did it, a little breathless!
The reward, apart from spectacular river and waterfall views,
was an appetizing, organized lunch at Atrium Restaurant,
where, for short time, rested and enjoyed good local meal.

En route back, stopped for short tour of town of Skradin,
enjoying lakeside and park views before return to board ship.

Evening, our special anniversary dinner at The Chef's Table,
a five-course of tiny tasters of exquisite cuisine - left us hungry!
An experience but also gave opportunity for a late-night snack!

Split
Next day, Split, Croatia, a very old city of Greek origins.
Taking it easy from busy day before, a short tour of the town.
Although not visited, a reconstructed 1,700 year old palace
converted into luxury hotel with own ethnographic museum.
Espied structure resembling Tower of Pisa and a war-torn
building awaiting demolition once insurance case resolved!

Bari
Bari, Italy next morning, early rise for an all-day visit to Puglia.
Started with drive through Bari, revealing bustling smart city
and featured a well-preserved Norman-Swabian castle,
Romanesque Basilica of St Nicholas, the city's patron saint
and the Petruzzelli Theatre, a most important opera house.

From Bari, took the Adriatic coastal road with a turn inland,
into a profusion of olive trees, an entire landscape of olives!
En-route, plan to visit small, but hilly, historic town of Ostuni,
passed by statue of Francis of Assisi, soon alighted from bus.
Walking up steepish street with very elegant large houses,
brought group to main square housing the municipal offices.

With a brief history of the town by a local tour guide, a slow,
ambling pace further uphill through narrow lanes with a few
tourist stores tucked in along the way, brought the group to
an historic church where miracles were said to have occurred.
Further along narrow alleys, imposing Archeological Museum.
Returning, passed church and tourist shops to main square.
Group made way down on narrow alternative paved road.
Traffic passed by carefully through historic arched building.
Sidled through an even narrower alleyway that opened up
to give a grand view of the outer town and even beyond
the green groves of countless olive trees - The Adriatic.

That short visit done, returned to bus and on to Alberobello,
continued to be surrounded by acres and acres of olive trees.
As the miles passed, housing espied with round trulli roofs.
From parking square at Alberobello, a walk to the village of
Trulli, a hilly area, walking only. The houses with round roofs
and dry stone were originally built to avoid paying tax as could
be dismantled quickly as not classed as a permanent taxable
building, a scheme should tax collector arrive to collect taxes!
A very unusual and pretty scene with lots of tourist stores.
Lunch in local restaurant, taxied to bus for return journey to Bari.

At Sea Day
An ‘At Sea' next day, the ship steering south along Italy's east,
alongside its foot into the Ionian Sea and onwards to dock at
Syracuse, Sicily, a town south of unpredictable Mount Etna.

Syracuse/Catania, Sicily.
A new day opened on a sun-drenched early morning Syracuse.
Low rising dwellings and few spires to break the townscape
as tour bus made its way out of town to head north towards
Catania for a baroque experience. Countryside scape not
of great attraction, again, olive trees seemed main harvest.
Suddenly, making turn on a road bend, there, in the distance,
Mount Etna. An awe-inspiring moment, this volcano of
destructive eruptions over the centuries, quiet, snowcapped.
Small villages and towns nestle in its foothills, always aware
can be overtaken by flowing lava on those occasional but
unpredictable intervals, when crater of Etna cracks open.

Onwards to Catania, its huge Baroque Center Square housing
a splendid historic church, municipal offices, large fountain,
a 500-year old university, cafes and up-market residences.
A walking tour of the local streets beyond, a fairytale statue
of young girl and a fountain overflowing into the local stream.
Open-air markets of fish, cheese, meat, fruit and vegetables
together with umbrella covered lanes with many enticing cafes.

Returned to the large square, visited the old university building.
It had a magnificently patterned large stone square surrounded
by double decker arched walkways that led to the entrance
of the university's museum, an interesting collection of old
cornucopia items pertaining to the University. A portrait of
Vincenzo Bellini the 16th century composer, who attended
this Catania University and manuscripts from 1582, skeletons,
microscopes and numerous other items of subjects studied
by the long-ago scientists, teachers and pupils of another age.
The walk continued, stopping by the Teatro Massimo Bellini,
a striking ornate building of original Baroque style. Strangely,
the program that evening was of Bellini's orchestral music.
Returned once more to the impressive main square,
congregating outside The Café where earlier, all had coffee.
Returned to Syracruse following a most worthwhile morning
visit to Baroque Catania with added bonus, views of Mount Etna.

Joined the afternoon tour of Syracuse, which took route along
the quay and bay and onwards into the town where saw the
remains of an old palace of antiquity. From there, alighted from
bus and walked into an older part of town, entered a stately
square of three storey houses and a glorious figured fountain.
The walk continued into older streets, large museum and church.
Onwards to gardens with magnificent tall spreading trees of
hundreds of years old, emerging onto the wide, newly paved
esplanade, espied the Viking Star and returned to the ship.

The day ended with a most beautiful sunset, a candle lighting
and in the ship's Star Theatre, a tribute to staff and crew and
finished with a superb vocal show of The Beatles Songbook.
Certainly, a very busy day, checked my steps monitor,19,470!

Naples, Sorrento and Pompeii
Docking in Naples, excursion today to Sorrento and Pompeii,
promises history and spectacular views of Gulf of Naples.

Starting off journey through Naples gave a good feel of this
busy port and town, though quickly transferred to the coastal
road working its way around the beautiful Bay of Naples.
The day was quite lovely, sky without a hint of cloud,
the coast waters calm and deep blue, waterside villages and
towns clung snugly against the water's edge.
In the distance, the journey gradually passed the infamous
Vesuvius Volcano, the very volcano that buried Pompeii
under ash and lava 2000 years ago. A visit to Pompeii later.

Journeying onwards towards Sorrento, the scenery became
more attractive, plenty of olive groves, old heritage castles,
canopied winding narrow roads and gradually driving higher
along the now steep climb towards the town of Sorrento.
The magnificent views from this road overlooking the whole
Gulf of Naples, a scene of beauty rarely seen elsewhere,
is breathtaking, The entire Gulf of Naples coast in one view.
Arriving in the town of Sorrento, perhaps a little of a let-down.
Maybe one had read too many romantic stories - seemed
like any other very nice upscale place. There was time for
exploring, shopping and photo opportunities with views,
after which, lunch arranged in Pizzeria Aurora in town centre.

From Sorrento, journey returned down the steep coast road,
offering again, wonderful panoramic views of Gulf of Naples
and from this angle, more easily to see Mount Vesuveus.
Driving to the archeological site of Pompeii a guided tour had
been arranged. Having had a tour of this site some 40 years
prior, when dig was still in its reasonable infancy, an easy
entrance to walk through, and a few streets and housing
unearthed, it was difficult to relate to its transformation.
Now, line-ups, entrance fees, formal gates and turnstiles,
many more staff and most noticeably, the archeological site
of Pompeii covered far greater area with many more buildings
and roads unearthed. There is now a modern museum which
houses most of the relics and forms of human remains that
have been found. Those 40 years ago they had been left in
the area where found, now the authenticity has been lost.
Pompeii history as told by the guide, was of a most
sophisticated Roman city, all the mod-cons for those days,
running water, baths and toilets and a variety of shops
covering the requirements of the people at that time.
Its destruction came very quickly over two days in 79 A.D.,
when Vesuvius erupted quite suddenly, covering Pompeii
with ash and pumice and hot toxic pyroclastic flows.
This latest visit to Pompeii was most enlightening,
encountering the vast advance of new areas discovered.

Our Viking cruise now over, sailed overnight reaching port
of Civitavecchia. Disembarked, onto Rome for three days.

Rome
Stopped enroute at one of Rome's exquisite Italian-style
Renaissance gardens with amazing symmetry manicured
landscaping, a delight to visit and see before arriving at
Anantara Hotel, Piazza Della Repubblica, Castro Pretorio
Area, prior to which, a pleasant ride through the suburbs,
gradually making way into heart of Rome, though skimmed
by famous sites that will be visited during the next 72 hours.
This gave a sense of excited anticipation to actually see and
even visit and explore some of the wonders of past centuries.

Early evening, the opportunity to have guided tour for an evening
view of the yellow lit arches of Colosseum before a walking tour
through narrow bustling tourist lanes and central sights of Rome.

Next day, free time to relax and enjoy coffee in Della Piazza
and observe the non-stop traffic winding around the fountain.
Prepared ourselves for a guided tour of The Vatican.
The ambience, the magnificence of The Vatican leaves one
breathless and too, to take in the sheer size of the building and
the breathless dimensions of the halls and galleries crammed
with statues, busts, furniture, ornaments and paintings from
miniatures to huge canvasses and to finally reach and view
Michelangelo's acclaimed painted ceiling in Sistine Chapel.
It was a moment to stop, sit, take time to appreciate the whole
ceiling in its entirety, rarely seen as such in illustrated brochures.
It was time to pull away, exited by marble stairway and along
a sumptuous wide long hallway, exited into Vatican Square.
Viewing the Vatican building from the square, was ornamented
by architectural wonders, huge pillars, statues, gargoyles,
the widest of marble staircases, ornamented doors, huge stone
coat of arms and large engraved Latin wording, the very
balcony the Pope appears upon to give his weekly solemn
addresses and lessons to the people waiting in the Square,
the Square that can hold tens of thousands of worshippers.
A most enlightening tour, breaking down a little of the
mystery of what lies behind the façade of The Vatican.

The last day of holiday. Off to an early start to arrive
at the Colosseum before it gets too crowded.
Tour guide carefully advised a general outline of where we
would enter and of the ensuing sights to be experienced.

Once in, walked up wide flight of stairs to the first perimeter
path inside, winding completely around the Colosseum arena.
On first sight, took one's breath away, the Colosseum was
enormous, varying high stone walls on all sides.
Original arena floor completely eroded away, therefore, the
view seen were the corridors and rooms used by gladiators,
animal holds, arena supervisors and Christians and other
unfortunate persons who would go to their deaths in arena
as sport for the Roman Emperor and citizen onlookers.
The immensity of the circumference of the Colosseum,
the walk ways and anti-rooms within, stairways and platforms
for audiences quite extraordinary. A specific raised area for
Caesar and his entourage to sit and watch the games.
One interesting modern addition made to one area, a
permanent large stage to accommodate occasional high-
powered shows, that has included Paul McCartney of Beetles.
The early start well paid off as even as early as we were
during the visit, crowds were pouring in and also long queues
forming to enter the Colosseum seen when making our exit.

The bus tour continued with a view of Circus Maximus, a huge
oblong circuit, when, in Roman days, chariot races were held,
as portrayed in movies like "Ben Hur", which gives idea of size.
The whole layout of the circuit is still to be seen but now,
the race track is sanded over and the seating stands around
are no more, all gone and those areas grassed over.
The tour continued to view Venice Square and Capitoline Hill,
well known areas of Rome and a quick glimpse of the magical
Trevi Fountain, a great sight to finish tour enroute to hotel.

With an interesting evening tour of near surrounds including
a culinary workshop, which was great fun, was taught to mix,
knead and roll dough that was going to be used to make
the spaghetti that we would be eating after it is cooked. Soon,
the group enjoyed a culinary delight of spaghetti bolognaise,
a glass of wine and to finish, a delicious creamy dessert.
Returned to Hotel Anantara to prepare for morning check out.

A superb and memorable vacation had come to its end and now,
it was homeward bound.


Written from notes, photos and memory during February 2026 of recent Athens to Rome Odyssey.